Trip to Georgia - 2021: personal experience, cost

I kindly envy those who are going on a trip now. Someday vacation in Georgia will again become massive, and to see this gastronomic and natural paradise without crowds of tourists is a rare opportunity.

In this article I will tell you about prices, budget for the trip, give important tips and, of course, I will write a whole section about routes and cool places - in short, I will try to help as much as possible to plan a trip to Georgia on my own!

How to get to Georgia now?

Direct flights from Russia to Georgia were stopped even before the pandemic.
This spoiled the ease of travel, but connecting options remained - for example, air tickets from Kazan to Tbilisi with a transfer in Baku cost me only 10,000 rubles. But then he came (who or what - substitute you) ... and canceled everything.

How are things going with flights now?
There is still no direct flight connection. However, Georgia is completely open to foreign tourists after the events of 2020. Not so long ago it was possible to fly through Turkey (Istanbul), but this option was also taken away from us, the Russians, until June.

• Specifically, now the operation "I want to go to Georgia" begins with the search for air tickets on Aviasales. Drive in points of departure and arrival and see what the search gives. Remember that working and proven transplant options for today are Yerevan or Minsk.

Entry rules

There are no avoiding problems - a trip to Georgia from Russia implies the following:

• Pass the PCR test 72 hours before departure and present the result at check-in at the airport and at the border in paper form and in English. On the third day of stay in the country, take another test at a local laboratory (I will leave the list of accredited ones in the comments to the text) - this result is checked upon return flight. Isolation or quarantine is not required at any stage.
• Vaccinated? Then the Sputnik vaccination certificate and its translation into English are enough for you. No tests and running around.

Travel to Georgia by car

For June 2021, ground and railway communication between Georgia and Russia closed... More precisely, Georgia opened its land borders, but Russia does not allow tourists to leave. But you can enter through Armenia.
I will leave the information for the future, with the opening of the borders, it will not lose its relevance.

It is convenient to get from Russia to Georgia if you live in Vladikavkaz or Rostov. Less comfortable, but also realistic - a trip to Georgia from Moscow: it takes a day, if not interrupted for rest. Once we drove this way with stops and overnight stays, and in general we spent two days.

You can enter Georgian territory only through "Upper Lars" - a checkpoint on the border just outside Vladikavkaz. The M4 highway leads from Moscow to Vladik, it is partially paid, the journey costs a little more than 1000 rubles. Payment by cash, card or transponder.

Allow extra time to cross the border by car. In winter, avalanches often come down here, and the road is closed. In March, we stood in line for 2-3 hours next to a truck with cute lambs. Operational information about the situation at the border is posted in the VKontakte group of the Verkhniy Lars checkpoint.
After the checkpoint, the Georgian Military Road begins, which goes to Tbilisi through Kazbegi, Gudauri and Mtskheta. The road is serpentine and terribly beautiful, so prepare your vestibular and photographic apparatus.

Housing prices - hotels and apartments

In order not to cause phantom pains in the wallet, I will say right away that very nice accommodation options - be it a hotel or an apartment - are very adequate in Georgia! For the price of a European "three-ruble note" here you can settle down as the heir to the king.

As in any country, everyone is looking for their place for a week or two on:

• RoomGuru - there are hotels and hostels,
• Airbnb or Sutochno.ru - there are apartments (the first one works all over the world, the second one is a Russian service that goes to the international level, including in Georgia).

Georgians are not the most obligatory people and like to offer rentals through local channels or word of mouth. But from my own experience, I know that "oh, sorry, forgot to update the dates, already taken" happens a lot. After one such time, I book accommodation only through the services from the list.

We compare and are pleasantly surprised - housing prices in Georgia:

* everything per night and for two, except for the hostel

She took Tbilisi as an example as the main center of attraction for tourists.
A guesthouse is a room in a house in the private sector. As authentic as possible, and the cheapest option after a hostel. The price usually includes a huge homemade breakfast and the owner's stories.

I will gladly recommend hotels - in the range of 2000-2500 rubles per night - that left me warm impressions of Tbilisi:

• 3 * Freedom Square Apart Hotel
• 3 * Wine Symphony Tbilisi Inn
• 3 * Golden Nugget Tbilisi

From luxurious and incredibly beautiful, which you would like to book simply from photos, without delving into the "stuffing":

• 5 * Stamba in Tbilisi
• and the most popular instagram hotel - 4 * Rooms Hotel Kazbegi in Kazbegi, at the end of the Georgian Military Highway.

My tips for choosing a home:

- There is no central heating in Georgia, so ask how the apartment is heated. It is quite cold here in spring and autumn at night.

- The shower in most apartments looks like a hole in the floor behind the curtain next to the toilet. If you need a full bathroom, choose a hotel.

- Tbilisi is very hilly, and if you live, say, in the Mtatsminda area, then returning home will become a difficult task. The center is: Sololaki, Abanotubani, Avlabari and Old Tbilisi. Here are the main attractions and crowds of tourists (they used to be, are now deserted). Quiet in the Vake or Vera areas. They are a little further from the center, but within walking distance.

Food prices - what to try?

Traveling to Georgia is gastronomic tourism. First of all, a review of the rest begins with food. If very roughly, then in a cafe here you can gorge yourself on 25–35 lari (600–800 rubles) for two.

You can't just come to Georgia and not rush into khinkali, even if in Russia you go to Khinkalnaya for lunch every day. Remember only one rule: do not use appliances and eat with your hands - and with this knowledge, order impressive dumplings, which in Georgia cost an average of 1 lari per item.

Yes, 22 rubles for khinkali ... True, there are many places where there is a restriction on the minimum portion - for example, 5 or 10 pieces.

Khachapuri served in several variations. Estimated good cost - 8-12 lari (180-270 rubles).

• There is Adjarian-style khachapuri - a delicious boat with cheese and an egg in the middle,
• "Imeretian style" - usually in the form of a cake with cheese inside,
• "Megrelian" - with cheese inside and out,
• "Penovani" - a triangle of puff pastry stuffed.

Required as an appetizer eggplant with nuts and pkhali - these are balls of vegetables grated with nuts and spices.

It is delicious in Georgia, especially in the regions. In a cafe on the highway or in a godforsaken village where there is no menu, they will bring you such a barbecue that you will remember for a long time. In big cities, where there are a lot of establishments, you already have to choose where to go. The fact is that if khinkali and khachapuri are cooked well, plus or minus everywhere, then with meat, it happens, there is a mistake. I often came across dry, like a heated kebab or meat in kharcho, which is impossible to chew.

Here is my selection of places in Tbilisi. I throw it off to friends and acquaintances, and I follow it myself every time I find myself in the city:

— Lolita - a pretty trendy place for brunch (from 10 GEL) and lunch (from 15 GEL), as I call it, "a little from everywhere." Here are tom yam and hummus, pasta and curry, hot dog and khachapuri! Only khinkali is missing.

— Stamba cafe - I love modern and stylish interiors, and Stamba is just like that! This and the absence of khinkali on the menu unites her with Lolita. The cuisine here is a little more expensive - main dishes from 18 GEL, but there is borscht and all four types of khachapuri for 12-15 GEL and, you will not believe it, a coffee alternative! Hario, kemex, coldbrew - 8 GEL.

— Fantastic dukhan of Sofia Melnikova (yes, that's the name!) in the blooming courtyard of the literary museum. When you want it mentally, cozy, at the same time simple and tasty: the menu is small, but the basis of Georgian cuisine is presented - I recommend khinkali with mushrooms (15 lari per ten).

— Ezo - delicious pkhali and rose. As a bonus, they bring homemade bread with three types of spreads to pass the time while waiting for the order. But with regret I learned that while they are closed. I really hope that they will cope with the difficulties and open the doors again!

— Shavi lomi - another place with a gorgeous courtyard where pomegranates grow. No less interesting is the idea: Georgian cuisine without the ubiquitous khinkali-khachapuri. Dishes from 18 GEL.

— Lui Coffee, Coffee Lab, Double B - excellent coffee, which is a rarity in Georgia.

By the way, there is no super big difference in price between an ordinary cafe and a pompous restaurant. Everything is about the same. Oh, and about the wine! Homemade wine is served in almost all cafes, and it is usually cheaper than those from well-known producers. But this wine is exceptionally dry, you can't find semi-sweet wine. The price for a glass of homemade wine is 1-3 GEL. Ordinary Georgian wine - from 6 GEL and more per glass.

Small bonus

A place for secrecy should remain - therefore I offer you a mutually beneficial exchange. Leave a comment on this article (for example, what attracts Georgia? Or are you flying for the first time?), And I will send you by mail the name of the place with the best ice cream in Tbilisi - downright gelato without Italy!

Food prices

In Georgia, the currency is the lari. 1 lari is equal to 22 rubles.

The prices for groceries in supermarkets in Georgia are slightly lower than in Moscow, but there is not much difference to notice. And you only go to a store or shop for a bottle of water (0.5 GEL) and a loaf of freshly baked bread (0.8 GEL) - this is how inexpensive establishments cover all gastronomic desires and needs.

Although ... oh, sorry, they still run to the supermarket for wine! Local wine is also pleasantly cheap, starting at 3 GEL. We bought semi-sweet, aged, insanely tasty white wine at 12 GEL per liter. In general, I advise you to take wine in the Wine Gallery - an incomparable house of wine, both bottled and draft, and for any budget.

What to see in Georgia? Itinerary for a week

Someone says that it is optimal to plan the first trip to Georgia for a week. This is a really convenient term, but it all depends on your circumstances. Therefore, I will give 2 examples of the route:

- the first for 3-4 days with short trips from Tbilisi,
- the second is just a week and throughout the country, but it still will not cover all the sights in Georgia.

TRAVEL ROUTE IN GEORGIA №1.

Where to? Tbilisi, Kazbegi (Georgian Military Highway), Kakheti (Alazani Valley).
What do you need? The reserve of strength to walk, and the choice - a rented car or a tour.

1. Tbilisi

The main sights of Tbilisi are few and far between, but walking around the city does not get boring at all. The most interesting thing is hidden in the alleys and courtyards - there is the usual life of ordinary people in rickety houses, on the marvelous balconies of which are hung linen - but for some reason it attracts more tourist streets.

What to see in Tbilisi?

- Old town with obligatory points: Rike Park, Peace Bridge, Narikala Fortress, Botanical Garden, Gabriadze Clock Tower.

- Mount Mtatsminda, where the funicular rises for 2.5 GEL. There is an amusement park (and in winter, when it is closed, you can walk) and a gorgeous overview.

- Tsminda Sameba (Holy Trinity Cathedral), the steps of the temple are the best place to meet the sunsets.

- Abanotubani sulfur baths are outside for everyone, and try it on yourself - for those who are not against the concept of public baths.

- MOMA Tbilisi or Tsereteli Museum of Contemporary Art - entrance 10 GEL (220 rubles) per person.

- From my favorite and off scale hipster bookstore They Said Books.

To replenish the piggy bank of knowledge and interesting facts about the city, you can always take an excursion - fortunately, there are a lot of them in Tbilisi in Russian and cost from 800 rubles per person (look at the number of reviews!). There are two main sites for booking guided walks:

• Tripster - it is good for sightseeing tours around the city, Tbilisi, Batumi, etc., offers tours outside the city.
• Georgia4travel - and here are excellent field trips to the mountains and valleys, which we will talk about further.

2. Trip to Kazbegi

Kazbegi is the final point of the route along the Georgian Military Highway. And the tour to the mountains by VGD is the most picturesque and inspiring nature, in my memory! On a par with the Montenegrin mountains. We took a tour because we didn't drive a car at that time.

You can do it in 1 day: leave Tbilisi in the morning and return in the evening. The most beautiful stops:

• the town of Mtskheta,
• Jvari monastery and the confluence of two rivers,
• Zhinvali reservoir,
• fortress Ananuri,
• Arch of Friendship of Peoples,
• Kazbek itself and the Gergeti temple.

The snow-capped peaks of the Caucasian ridge are especially beautiful!
I highly recommend this excursion for your first trip to Georgia, it covers one of the most wonderful regions of the country. If you decide to drive around the points on your own by car (details about car rental below), here is a review from our friend:
“They say that if you go north along the road in the fall or winter, then it is better to take an SUV, as if the roads are covered there and it is impossible to drive a sedan. But all along our way (in February) there was an excellent clean road, and everyone passed through quietly everywhere. However, it happens that avalanches descend on the roads from the mountain, and then problems can begin. "

3. Trip to Kakheti

Kakheti - about wine! About the Alazani Valley and lunch with a view of the vineyards and the Caucasian ridge, about the city of love Sighnaghi and its tiled streets, about the Bodbe monastery and its arched windows, through which the tops of the mountains gleam with snow on the horizon.

In a word, it is worth allocating a day from Tbilisi to Kakheti. In terms of duration - as well as Kazbegi, in the morning there, in the evening back. Here, of course, an excursion is definitely better, so that you can tell a bunch of Georgian tales and take you, drunk, to safety.

ROUTE IN GEORGIA №2.

Where to? Tbilisi — Mtskheta — Gori — Uplistsikhe — Chiatura — Racha — Kutaisi — Ureki — Batumi
What do you need? Car.

1. Mtskheta, Gori, Uplistsikhe

Mtskheta is the ancient capital of Georgia, 30 minutes from Tbilisi. See the small old town and Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, then head to Jvari Monastery. It was built in the 6th century on a hill overlooking the confluence of the two rivers Aragvi and Kura and the Georgian Military Road.

Gori is Stalin's homeland with a museum dedicated to him. Actually, there is nothing more remarkable. Uplistsikhe is an ancient cave settlement with some kind of space Martian landscape. Entrance 15 GEL.

2. Chiatura, Kutaisi

Chiatura is a non-tourist destination. An industrial town in which manganese has been mined since the time of the union, so the river here is black. Chiatura is frozen in socialist times and looks like a ghost settlement. It is a city of cable cars that transport workers from home to work and back. The cable cars look brutal, but extremely unreliable. You can ride for free.

In Kutaisi, tourists are attracted by caves and canyons in the vicinity. I was in the cave of Prometheus, entrance 20 GEL. Walk underground for about an hour and look at the illuminated stalactites and stalagmites. It will be interesting if you are traveling with a child, or if you are tired of the heat - it is cold and damp here :)

3. Racha

Wine-growing region, where the village of Khvanchkara is located and many wineries. You can go without a special route, there are signs on the roads. We were allowed to visit one factory completely free of charge, they poured a sample of wine and sold a five-liter bottle of white for a ridiculous 20 lari.

4. Batumi

Everything is simple - the sea. The surrounding area has natural parks, waterfalls and a large botanical garden. The beaches in Batumi are pebbly. The sand on the coast is only in the town of Ureki, black magnetic.

But a beach vacation in Georgia is not only the Black Sea and Batumi. There are many villages around, for example, Kobuleti or Ureki. Unfortunately, in the summer, Batumi and Ureki turn into our Sochi, when there is nowhere for an apple to fall, and noisy sellers of water and snacks walk along the beach. For solitude and a clear sea, go to Sarpi - this is on the border with Turkey, about 30 minutes by minibus.

It would seem that there are so many places in the second route - but this is still only a small part of the country. There is also the Svaneti region, where even in summer there is snow, Borjomi, the rocky city of Vardzia, the Rabat fortress and much more. Therefore, there is always a reason to come to Georgia again!

Car rental in Georgia

This section is based on the words of our friend who drove through Georgia in a rented car.

I'll tell you right away where to rent a car - on Myrentacar. Firstly, because they work with local distributors, which means that the prices are lower. Secondly, as a third party, they protect you from possible bad faith of the offices. Well, and thirdly, before that I booked through their service a car in Cyprus and Montenegro - everything went smoothly and without "pitfalls", as in Georgia.

The roads in Georgia are good, so if you are not going to climb high into the mountains, you can take almost any car. To rent, you need a passport and a category B license. There is also a requirement for the driver - at least 23 years old and 3 years of driving experience.

I heard that there is inadequate traffic in Georgia. Allegedly, they do not let them through, everyone honks, the turn signals do not turn on, they drive. As a driver, I can say that this is exaggerated. The drivers drive sharper than ours and are less stupid on the road. There are more dashing people, but we also have a lot of them. So, if you want to rent a car, do not be afraid, the main thing is to check that the side mirrors work.

I took a car for $ 45 per day for 5 days without a deposit - but in general the initial price tag is from $ 20– $ 25 per day, which is very adequate. Gasoline costs about 2.5-3 lari per liter (55-70 rubles).

Transport

I'll tell you on the example of Tbilisi, as the largest city:

- The main public transport is buses... The trip costs 0.5 GEL. Payment with a coin (the machine does not issue change, so ask passengers to change it) or with a transport card.

— Minibuses... The numbers are not the same as the buses, so be careful. The fare varies from 0.3 to 2 lari. Payment by transport card or in cash to the driver.

— Metro somewhat stupid, only two branches and distant stations. Travel 0.5 GEL.

- But you can not be puzzled by public transport, because in Tbilisi it is obscenely cheap Taxi! You don't even need to download the application, you probably already have it on your phone - Yandex Taxi. They will take you from the airport to the city for 20 GEL, while the local drivers still charge incredible prices (they took 50 dollars from our English-speaking friend, and he still bargained!). A trip around the city will cost less than 5 lari (110 rubles).

How much money to take to Georgia for two?

Everyone has different requests and ideas about the rest, but the approximate cost of a trip to Georgia can be calculated.

The prices for vacations in Georgia are quite budgetary. The main expenses are plane tickets, accommodation and meals. Plus transport, excursions and souvenirs.

• Housing on average $ 20 per day,
• meals - $ 20– $ 25 for two,
• taxi - $ 10 per day.

In Tbilisi, you need about $ 400 for two for a week - without air tickets, cars and excursions. I talked about how much these travel elements cost in the previous sections.

If you are interested not only in the text and photos of Georgia, you can watch our video - there is about the cost of the trip, and about the route (which is to Kazbegi and Kakheti), and just beautiful:

Our reviews and recommendations

I will give several recommendations for a trip to Georgia in 2021:

- First things first, carefully study the new entry rules from the first section.
- Do I need a passport to travel to Georgia? A passport is needed, but Russians do not need a visa. You can legally stay on the territory of the country for up to 365 days (well, you never know, suddenly the rest will be delayed).

- In large cities, cards are accepted almost everywhere, so it makes no sense to go with cash. The cache will be required in the markets and in the regions. I usually go with a card and withdraw lari from it at an ATM at the airport.
- Many people speak Russian, especially the older generation. Young people are fluent in English, so there are no problems with the language.
- Everything is fine with security, walking in Tbilisi at night is much safer than in Moscow. BUT: there are a lot of stray dogs in Tbilisi.

- The portions in the establishments are huge, and this is not an exaggeration.
- Wine made according to Georgian technology has increased tannin and after drinking one glass, you can "drive off", so if you want to continue walking after lunch, order lighter wines according to European technology.
- Service in the cafe is slow. Waiters rarely write down and may forget to bring something, so feel free to repeat your order and check the invoice.

- Tbilisi has a disgusting driving culture from a pedestrian's point of view. Crossing the road even on the official pedestrian crossing is a whole quest. Over time, you get used to it and no longer wait for someone to stop, but simply put your hand forward and walk boldly.
- The roads are good, driving outside the cities is a pleasure. Only cows and lambs walking along the track can interfere.

And I will repeat useful links to help travel in Georgia:

• Tripster or Georgia4travel for excursions. Even hipster millennials who come to Georgia do not hesitate to sort out guided tours :) Because it is interesting, simple, and inexpensive.
• Myrentacar - car rental.
• Roomguru or Daily - for booking accommodation.

Mobile communications and internet

There are three telecom operators in Georgia - Magti, Beeline and Geosel. The prices are about the same. The connection quality is better than Magti or Geocell.

Geosel travel package includes 2 GB of internet, unlimited calls and SMS to all local numbers and 30 minutes of international calls. Costs 20 GEL, valid for 15 days. Sim cards are sold at the airport and in salons around the city.

I use the DrimSim travel sim card, which works universally in all countries of the world. The first connection is given 7 euros as a gift.

When is the best time to go to Georgia?

The season in Georgia is all year round.
The ideal time to visit Tbilisi is April and May. It's already warm, but not hot, there are few tourists, the city is in bloom. September is good too. The crowds were in May and October in Tbilisoba.

In summer, the weather in Tbilisi is hellish - 30 plus. It is impossible to walk during the day, you walk all sticky and risk getting sunstroke. People crawl out into the street in the evening, after sunset. In summer, it's time to go to the sea in Batumi, Kobuleti or Ureki.

Winter in Tbilisi is very windy, in Batumi it is rainy, but this is a great time for ski resorts. The most popular is Gudauri, in second place is Bakuriani, and the new resorts are Tetnuldi in Svaneti and Goderdzi in Adjara.